@kurcatovium@lemm.ee

They cannot just make a passive, universal device that presses places on the touchscreen, as Nintendo has filed a patent for a Game Boy case for phones, likely without actual interest in making this cheap hardware device themselves.

It was advertised as “2 TB (64 GB Extended)” at a local clearance sale (not AliExpress), which was basically correct though I would prefer “64 GB but misprogrammed so everything can get corrupted at any time”. When buying it, I didn’t yet know if I could reprogram the chip but the low price was justified for the pretty aluminum case with a USB-C port and place for a custom PCB. I decided to buy it also to prevent another, less technical person from using it and losing their data. The store was getting rid of inventory for very cheap and would close soon so no more fake drives would be ordered.

Well, depends on how much you’re OK with some problems. I knowingly bought a “2 TB (64 GB Extended)” flash drive, tested its sectors and reprogrammed it to 32-in-64-GB for wear leveling and bad sector avoidance because it was still a cheap 32GB USB drive. I made sure to label it for “non-critical use” such as movies.

As for camping lanterns, ones charged from mains might have a nasty habit of shocking their users. (The YouTube channel contains a huge number of cheap Chinese charger teardowns and most don’t meet safety criteria. Usually, there is just 1 or 2 layers of thin tape between mains and the output you can touch.)

Sometimes, counterfeits or unknown brands are so similar to the real deal that it barely matters. I’d say that basic electronics (alarm clocks, kitchen scales, calculators, SD security cams) or even RAM is fine. With appropriate expectations, parts like video or USB cables, hubs etc., small home improvement items (hooks, screws) are fine too. Avoid categories where a lot of items have fake specs (storage devices, LED bulbs, anything that claims a runtime on a Li-Ion battery). Power electronics (especially if using mains or non-tiny Li-Ion batteries) can be downright dangerous. For novelty items and electronics modules, it’s usually easy to find text or video reviews on other websites because they’re easy to uniquely describe. Remember to consider ways in which the product can be utter crap despite high reviews citing good first impressions; it also helps to have practical knowledge of testing the properties of the items and fixing common issues.

Well, then you’re going to hear

Limited offer! Sign up until September 30 for Ford Fun Plus and get a year of ad-free rides at just $10 per month!

most of the time, much like Spotify.
(Last time I was in a Spotify-“enhanced” waiting room was 6 years ago so no idea if that still holds.)

For fewer comics of this kind but with the word “fascist”, don’t check out !funhole@lemmy.sdf.org.

The Ion launcher for TI-83 calculators has existed since 1999. Why did the Android port take so long? /s

Input devices almost never use USB 3.0. In fact, most manufacturers save money and don’t shield the cable, forcing half-speed USB 1.1, which is enough for all mice and keyboards - less than 50 kb/s of the available 6 Mb/s is required even for 240Hz polling. High-end mice might have USB 3.0 (9 pins instead of 4 in the plug) but there should be no practical difference between 3.0 and 2.0 speeds. The polling rate will most likely be identical and the microsecond difference between how long each takes to transfer the data is likely way lower than lag from the mouse’s wireless connection.

Just use any USB 2.0 hub, even $2 ones from AliExpress will work the same as high-end ones. Most are sold with 4 ports because that’s what their standard generic chip does. You probably have one lying around or built into the monitor. You’re unlikely to cause interference so just choose any spot with strong signal to the desk area, not necessarily line-of-sight: if the mouse works everywhere within 2 meters from the intended area, then the intended area will have good signal and minimal chance of dropout. The lag or polling rate does not decrease with signal strength unless you count extra nanoseconds the radio waves need to travel.

The only difference is when you need another port for high-speed applications such as mass storage devices or MTP with your phone, at which point just plug them directly into the PC for max speed.

Yes but you’ll need to intercept the HDMI cable with a beefy microcontroller to turn it back on when displaying patient data again so you don’t get fired. At this point, I’d be looking to disable the corresponding software if the computer is accessible.

It’s a minix clone, so… mimix?

We should make a donation campaign, pretty sure somebody has a spare SATA drive around. This minix clone sounds good

I’m glad someone was able to donate a non-AT drive because Linus could not afford it :-(

A surprisingly serious typeface from Adobe Fonts.

IMO, the most egregious one is Essay Text.

Note that if supported by the font you use, the three symbols will usually be drawn the same way as an asterisk (*) in that font. This means a lot of variation.

Your browser’s rendering: */⁂

Several typefaces’ rendering of Unicode U+2042 ASTERISM:

I think the diversity is alright! It’s like the Fediverse: instances follow a standard to work with each other but can be heavily customized without breaking integration.

It’s in Unicode, duh… Otherwise, you’d need an image to represent it.

See Asterism (Wikipedia)

I once found a workaround on a trashpicked Android 5.1 phone by Huawei. There was a shitty third-party keyboard during the setup, so I tapped around and found that it has DLC themes. Attempting to download one resulted in a popup “Offline? Check network settings” with a link into the Settings app, where I could set a lock screen passcode and then remove it, which nullified FRP.

Later, I found a YouTube video with instructions for another exploit, which somehow reached Settings via the screenshot shortcut and then attempting to share it via Gmail. I imagine weird phone brands will have several exploits like this.

With some camera trickery (perhaps mounting it in a way so that it gets tilted/dollied by moving the door, plus fake camera shake to make it look less artificial), one could create a perfect loop. These do well on platforms where watch time/duration ratio is logged and videos loop unless stopped, namely TikTok.

Looks like a texture bug… Why would they bother modeling them if they’d end up using an obviously wrong texture?

I have Bluetooth earbuds that crack open when they hit a hard surface (have surviveed so far) and the battery is a little Li-Ion pouch on soldered wires. They probably don’t last as long as sealed ones of the same size but it’s very easy to find and install a replacement battery. Just check disassembly guides before buying.